Detecting Fakes and
Repaints
Use of a black light
By Dr. Michael Echols
A few years ago a buddy
of mine ( a long-term collector), and I decided we needed to figure out how
best to use a black light. A couple of other collectors, like Gabby
Talkington, were experimenting with lights, but no one had written anything
down about what to look for given various problems.
At the time we undertook
this experiment, I had a collection of about eight hundred early wood lures,
about half of which were bought in the 1995 to 1997 time frame before prices
went through the roof and fakes were prevalent. The rest of the
collection was purchased from the field via my web site AntiqueLures.com.
For the most part, there was no problem at the time with direct reproductions,
but rather with touch-ups and repaints from one or two known individuals.
What we did was
black-light all eight hundred lures at one sitting. It was night time
and the room was totally dark except for one small red light on the floor to
avoid night blindness. We carefully rotated each lure to inspect the
full paint job and tried to stay within a given company to compare the paint
only for that company. In other words when we looked at Heddon, we
looked at all the Heddon lures from oldest to the newest lures. At that
time the collection was all pre-1940.
We found the older
paint (pre-1940) varied considerably from present day paint in the degree of
fluorescence (reflected bright light). We had made some test 'lures' for
comparison by dip-painting rod dowel stock with current paint and
lacquer like that used to do re-paints. This was done to check for
obvious differences. The newer paint and varnish was just totally
different from older oil based paint used on early pre-1940 lures. The
newer paint is almost fluorescent as it glows when the ultra violet light hits
it. The older paints, like we found on Heddon, Pflueger, South Bend,
Shakespeare, etc. were much duller and had a kind of brownish cast due to the
thick lacquer. Newer lures like you would see from Creek Chub had
brighter paint and were much harder to detect as being different from current
paint chemistry. Thick or thin varnish (lacquer) greatly changes the
over-all cast of the color. Thick varnish like you find on South Bend,
Heddon, and the higher grade Pfluegers, gives the brownish cast. Thin
varnish lets the underlying 'paint' color shine through better.
Any lure which had a
scrape to the varnish showed up as a dark spot against the over all background
of the original paint. Turning the light on and off to inspect a given
area was telling as you could see where the varnish was even slightly
modified. The same dark spot is seen with a touch up, but is
usually much darker.
Shakespeare lures showed
the greatest variation as there seem to be multiple layers of color and any
scratch or rub drastically changed the look of the paint under the defect.
In general early Shakespeare, pre-1910, have very thin varnish. The
solid yellow of early, pre-1908, Shakespeare is non-fluorescing and looks very
dull.
The greatest surprise
came when we compared three mint all-yellow lures. The lures were a 1920
Heddon 150 fat body in L-rig, a 1926 Heddon150 slim body in L-rig, and a
Musky five hook c. 1916 Shakespeare minnow. All three were very high
dollar lures. The first was a known field find Heddon fat body 150 in
the correct box which dated to the early 1920's. This Heddon served as
the 'known'. We knew this Heddon was 'right', but the other two were
suspect due to their condition and the fact that they had been shipped in for
evaluation by two different individuals. The solid yellow on the
'known' Heddon lure turned a kind of light yellow under the black light, but
the other two turned an identical solid mustard brown instead of the natural
light yellow of the known Heddon 150.
We then placed all three
lures under a microscope and checked for crazing in the paint, looked for
paint on the eyes, and around the hardware. What we found was the
hardware on the two suspect lures were lightly dented which was inconsistent
with the 'mint' paint. Perfect paint is not consistent with damaged
hardware. The conclusion in the end was the two suspect lures were
painted by the same person and turned up at the same time. Both were
returned to the individuals trying to sell them.
Our other findings were
that early Shakespeare, which has little or no varnish, consistently looked
the same from lure to lure. The same with early Pflueger and the early
miscellaneous companies we examined.
The group of 800 lures
we examined are all on
www.antiquelures.com which contains the original collection from the late
90's and were obtained prior to the wave of repaints that started in the late
90's.
The trick with a black
light, like grading, is to look at as many lures from one company as you can
at one time. Look at older collections and compare paint within a given
company. For Creek Chub collectors, this is a real eye opener as the
paint varies like crazy due to the variety of lures and the time frame when
they were painted. But, in the end, you have to compare age to age and
company to company. There is no one 'cook book' answer on fakes.
You have to compare lots of lures and then cross examine your findings against
'known' specimens to get a control for comparison.
You can do this same
examination at lure shows, but you have to pick your time because of the
lighting and traffic. At one Daytona show, we had a night time safari to
take small groups around the show with the lights down after hours and looked
at lures on each table. It was very 'instructional'. Fakes and
repaints light up like Christmas trees.
The other aspect which
has to be considered is using a loop or magnifying glass to inspect the
underlying paint and hardware for variations from the norm. Hardware
will often be a tell-tale for mint lures as it is difficult to have perfect
paint and beat hardware on the same lure. Checking paint on Heddon lures
for deep 'crazing' is essential to gain an understanding of the
characteristics of old and new paint. Variations in storage may account
for different problems, but experience is the best and only teacher.
Other than
knowing someone with extensive experience, your own experience is the best
teacher. Repaints are so obvious once you look at a collection of early
lures and see what the real paint looks like under the light.
Below is the
type of hand-held single tube black light used. They are battery
powered, inexpensive, and available from various antique dealers.